Setsubun is an event at the final day of winter in old calender. 4th of Feb is ‘Risshun’, Risshun is the first day of spring.
In setsubun event, Oni (demon in Japan) comes from north east, so people fight against Oni with throwing beans. Almost all shrines and temples hold setsubun event, many people go to here and there.
In Kyoto there are 4 big famous setsubun event
- 1. Yoshida jinja shrine (north east)
- 2. Yasaka jinja shrine (south east)
- 3. Mibu dera temple (south west)
- 4. Kitano tenmangu shrine (north west)
Going to those 4 shrines and temple is called as ‘Yomo-mairi’. I went to all of them in this setsubun 2019.
At Yoshida Jinja shrine I watched Tsuinashiki. Tsuinashiki is a ceremony of beating Oni. 3 Oni come to the shrine, make troubles. Then Housou-shi comes, and beats 3 Oni. After being beaten 3 Oni change their minds and become good Oni.
There were too many people, so I took pictures just only about many smart phones taking the ceremony…
Next. I went to Yasaka Jinja shrine. Mamemaki (throwing beans) ceremony was held there. The throwers are Maiko girls! In the beginning of the ceremony Maiko girls show the traditional Japanese dance, after that they throw beans. I got a one package of happy beans!
Next I went to Mibu Dera temple. At there I watched a Kyougen play stage, the title was ‘Setsubun’. In that play an Oni came to a house. A woman living in the house didn’t open the door for the Oni, but when the Oni came back with a costume of nice people, the woman opened the door, and gave a drink to the Oni. The Oni got drunk, so put off some of the costumes, so the woman found it was the Oni. The woman thrown beans to the Oni, then The Oni ran away.
It was a unique Kyougen play, I enjoyed much.
I had to go next hurry, but if you have time, it would be nice to eat and buy something at the street shops. Some wagashi like Kintsuba and Amanatto are pretty good.
Finally I went to Kitano-tenmangu shrine. There was a Kyougen play and dance stage of Maiko girls and Grill girls. And of course Mamemaki ceremony. So gorgeous Setsubun event! I cought 13 packs of beens.
These 4 Setsubun events, I finished ‘Yomo-mairi’. But I went to one more. Rozanji temple is a famous for its Setsubun event. we call it as “Oni Houraku”. 3 big Oni come to Rozanji temple, broke in the monks mantra. But monks mantra was powerful, so Oni became weak, ran away…
